厂辫补颈苍鈥檚 jam贸n Ib茅rico is one of the most coveted hams in the world. Produced from Iberian black pigs (pata negra) that have a specific diet consisting of bellota (acorns), the ham retails for roughly $1,000 per leg. Last week at ICE鈥檚 Los Angeles campus, students had a chance to sample the delicacy and learn about its history and production process with master carver Manuel Recio as part of a day of seminars dedicated to Spanish cuisine.
If you鈥檝e ever visited Spain, you probably noticed that ham is everywhere. You may have awed at ham legs hanging from shop ceilings like pork chandeliers and downed several glasses of albari帽o while munching on silky slices of jam贸n. But what you might not have realized is that not all Spanish ham is created equal.
鈥淛am贸n Ib茅rico is the gastronomic jewel of Spain,鈥 said Manuel Recio, master carver, or cortador de jam贸n. According to Recio, there is not an area in Spain that does not proudly serve this scarlet red, glistening ham. 鈥淗owever, the majority of ham from Spain is jam贸n Serrano,鈥 Recio said. Serrano is similar to prosciutto, although unlike the Italian ham, it鈥檚 cured in salt with no brine. Only seven percent of the ham produced in Spain is Ib茅rico because the artisanal product takes time and skill to procure.
Jam贸n Ib茅rico is produced in four specific provinces (Guijuelo, Jabugo, Los Pedroches and Extremadura) in the western and southwestern parts of the country, which host high mountain meadows. There, man-made dehesa habitats have existed for centuries with three kinds of oak trees (gall, holm and cork) that drop acorns into pastures. Here, pigs consume herbs, grasses and the acorns.
From April through September, the pigs in the dehesa graze on herbs, legumes, mushrooms and grass. Montanera, a period from October to March, is the fattening season when acorns fall. We learned from Recio that the acorns are composed of 45 percent sugars. 鈥淚t鈥檚 just like dropping chocolate chip cookies all over the dehesa,鈥 he said. 鈥淭he pigs go crazy trying to eat all of these acorns.鈥
Ib茅rico pigs typically have long snouts and long, slender legs, and almost all are black. 鈥淕enetically, they have a unique ability to transform nutrients from the bellotas [acorns] into intramuscular fibers,鈥 Recio said.
Once the pig is 鈥渟acrificed鈥 as Recio respectfully puts it, the meat is naturally dry cured 鈥 not brined nor smoked 鈥 then covered in sea salt and hung to age.
Similar to the beef dry-aging process that we learned about from Adam Perry Lang, the environmental conditions play a critical role in 厂辫补颈苍鈥檚 jam贸n aging process, which is centuries-old. Water is sprinkled on the floor of aging bodegas (storerooms) to create humidity, and windows are opened for air flow. 鈥淭hey are in very specific places in Spain where the environment is perfect for curing: A bit cooler, ranging anywhere from 55 to 65 degrees,鈥 Recio said.
The first step for curing is salting. The legs are stacked in the saldadero (salting room), packed with sea salt and frequently rotated. The next step, called profiling, determines how much fat to leave on the meat. 鈥淭oo much fat and it鈥檒l cure unevenly and take too long. Too little fat, then it鈥檒l dry out very quickly,鈥 Recio says.
Next, it goes to the secadero (drying room) to hang for a minimum of two years, though many producers age for three to four years. Then someone with a trained nose, el calador, 鈥減okes the jam贸n [with a cala] in different parts to tell if it鈥檚 ready or not to be released,鈥 Recio explained. 鈥淢uch like a master sommelier smells wine.鈥
The final and most critical step is presentation, which falls on the chef. 鈥淎ll this work went into creating this beautiful jam贸n,鈥 Recio said. 鈥淚t鈥檚 up to you to transmit that and add your own personal message to it for your customers.鈥
For Americans and amateurs, here鈥檚 what to keep in mind when serving jam贸n Ib茅rico:
- Appearance: 鈥↗am贸n Ib茅rico should be deep red, bright and glossy due to all the omega acid. The fat should be fluid, almost dripping 鈥 that鈥檚 how you can tell if it鈥檚 100 percent Ib茅rico. There should be protein crystals in the jam贸n, similar to aged Parmigiano cheese.
- 颁耻迟迟颈苍驳:鈥 Always start cutting with the maza (bottom) on top, as it has the most fat and will produce the showcase slices.
- Serving: Slices should always be transparent, not thick, for optimal flavor. Each slice should be about 1.5 ounces, or the size of a business card. Always serve jam贸n Ib茅rico at room temperature.
Take advantage of demonstrations, lectures and global flavors in ICE鈥檚 Culinary Arts program in Los Angeles.
